Streiff's 
Ideal System 
of GaFnient 
Cutting 




Streiff's 
Ideal System 
of Garmeiit 
Cutting 



By 



E. L. STREIFF 




Copyright 


1920 




..by... 




EUGENE 


L. 


STREIFF 


DETROIT, 




MICHIGAN 



Streiff's System 



INTRODUCTION. 



1g 



Streiff "i Ideal System is published to meet a long standing demand for a practical, 
reliable and trustworthy system. 

In its preparation the aim has been to produce a convenient book of reference and 
furnish a comprehensive exposition of an anthropologial science heretofore imperfectly 
understood. In order to accomplish this and to confine the work within reasonable limits, 
great care has been given to the condensation of the subject matter. 

The technical knowledge necessary for the successful pursuit of garment cutting is 
embodied in the system herein described. 

1 know it will fulfill its mission and meet with a cordial reception by all practical 
tailors who desire to produce comfortable, graceful and artistic clothes at a minimum cost 
of mental and physical labor. 

As quality not quantity has been a guiding principle with me, 1 delayed adding to the 
numerous systems already in existence until I could offer a distinctly superlative system 
that will greatly facilitate the acquirement of practical efficiency in garment cutting. 

Eugene L. Streiff. 



©CI A563452 






\^y 



FEB I7'l9^0 



Streiff's System 




EUGENE L. STREIFF 



Streiff's System 



DIAGRAMS A AND B. 
TO MEASURE 



THE COAT. 

Take all measures for overcoat, coat or vest, over the 
vest. 

Establish point A, at the socket bone of neck, find the 
center of back at B, establish C at the hollow of waist. 

Measure the length of sleeve under the arm from E 
to F. 

To measure the long shoulder stand to one side and 
toward the back of the client. Place the end of the 
tape at A, hold it firm with the three fingers of the left 
hand, allowing the thumb and mdex finger to be free. 
Now pass your right hand under the arm and draw the 
tape to E (as line G on diagram B indicates). Now 
use your index finger to place the tape close under the 
arm, then allow the arm to fall and hang naturally; 
draw the tape upward a little and pass it diagonally 
across the back to the thumb and index finger left free ; 
now change hands without allowing the tape to slip and 
finish the measure, with the tape in the left hand, to A. 

Measure the short shoulder by bringing the tape down 
over the most prominent part of the shoulder blade to 
the center of back at B. 

Note: Always take the long shoulder and short 
shoulder measures twice so as to be sure they are correct. 



Measure the natural-waist from A to C. 

Measure the length from A to D. 

Measure the breast over the fullest part of the chest 
and most prominent part of the blade at E. 

Measure the waist over the smallest part at C and H. 

THE VEST. 

Measure the opening from A to I. 

Measure the length from A to J. 

THE TROUSERS. 

Measure the outside length from H, a point on the 
hip, to K, a point 1 inch from the floor. 

Measure the inside length from L to M. 

Measure the waist, under the vest, over the trousers, 
at H. 

Measure the seat over the large part at N. 

Measure the knee at O. 

Measure the bottom at P. 

Note: Care must be taken to measure uniform, not 
loose nor tight. 

The client should stand in his natural attitude. 



Streiff^s System 





Diagram A 



Diagram B 



Streiff^s System 



DIAGRAM C. 

Note: All measures are taken over the vest. To 1 from ^' is the short shoulder. (12 mches for this 

obtain ease or exaggeration certain measures must be in- diagram). 

creased. Such measures are : Long shoulder, short 2 from 1 is Y^ inch for making. 

shoulder, breast, waist and seat. Add Vi inch to long 3 from F is the same distance as between A and F, X 

shoulder and short shoulder and for each Vi inch so and Y combined. 

added to long shoulder and short shoulder ad"d i inch Square back from 2 guiding by points 3 and I . 

to breast, waist and seat measures. Thus the size of a 4 from I is I /3 short shoulder. Square forward 

coat may be increased as desired. For the following from 4. 

diagram 1 inch has been added to long shoulder and 5 from 4 is I 8 breast. 

short shoulder and 2 mches to breast, waist and seat 6 from K is Vi short shoulder. Draw a line from U 

measures. [,, ^ 

THREE-BUTTON SACK. 7 from' J is Vi short shoulder. 

The Measures; 8 from B is 1 /6 seat. Square forward from 8. 

Sleeve under arm 18 of h ■ u j- . l . d it 

I 111 \l,. . ^ from O is the same di tance as between o and 7. 

Long shoulder l/'j r\ i c ^.\ in ii i 

CI V : 1 I X\ Draw a line trom o through 9 and shape to bottom. 

ohort slioulder 24 i o f o ■ .1 j . l > ^ \ n 

M , , , ^ I U Irom V V, Vr.t same distance as between 6 and 7. 

INatural waist 7 r^ i i r in r i -; 

1 .1 on Draw a line down trom I (J guiding by point 7 

Length 30 u- i, » ui- u ■ . 

p ^" which establishes point 

Wl 1 on the line squared forward from C. 
aist 35 

5g3( A< 12 from 7 is !/2 of the distance as between J and L. 

TO DRAFT. ■ ' ^ fiom I is '/i inch for each inch that the seat is more 

A is the point from which square. t'^a" 'lie breast. {Y^ inch for this diagram). 

B from A is the natural waijt. Draw a line from a point where the breast line 

C from A is the length. crosses the line U-6, to 1 2 and from 12 to 13 and 

D from A is the amount the long shoulder is more than fron™ ' ^ down to parallel the line 10-11. 

the short shoulder. {V/i inches for this diagram). Shape to I 2 and 6 as represented. 

For convenience use Yi of short shoulder for all Square forward through 1 I . guiding by line drawn 

points specified short shoulder. down from 1 3. 

E from D is 1/6 of short shoulder plus the amount as ' "^ ffom 11 is 1/3 short shoulder. Square forward from 

between A and D. (1/6 of 1 5 1/2 inches). '4. Shape at 14. 

F from E is Y-i short shoulder. Square forward from 15 from \' is 2^3 of sleeve under arm less 1 inch, (2/3 

F , B and C. of I 7 inches) and is center of pocket. Draw the 

G from F is Yl breast. 1 pocket opening through 1 5 to run parallel with the 

H from G is 2'/^ inches. ' bottom and make bYl inches in length. 

I from H is % inch. ( Y2 t'le amount desired for The brea=t pocket is 1 inch from Y. 

lapover). Draw a line from t!ic armseye to a pont at the 

f from B is 1 /24 breast. pocket, halfway between 1 5 and the back end of 

k is halfway between I and B. Draw a line from E -^me. Shape out an amount equal to Yl the dis- 

to K and square down from K. tance as between 7 and I 2. The other half shape 

L from J is '/<+ inch for each inch that the waist is less o"' 'i fro"' of ' 5 as represented. Cut out the back 

than the breast. ( 1 '/^ inches for this diagram). and place point A at point 2 with the line A-D 0.1 

M from L is J/4 waist. tlie line squared back from 2 by point 3. Mark 

N from M is 2'/4 inches. around same and jhape the shoulder as represented. 

O from N is V^ inch. {Vj the amount desired for lap- Shape the neckgorge and armseye as represented. 

over.) Draw a line from I to O and square down Establish the buttonholes. 

from O. Draw a crease line from a point 1 Ya inches trom 

P from A is 14 ^'loi't shoulder. Square up from P. ''ip neckgorge to the upper buttonhole. 

Q from P is 1 /24 short shoulder. Shape from A to Q. Shape the lapel and front. 

R from F is ' '^ short shoulder. For a double breasted coat add from H and N. Yz 

S from R is Y2 short shoulder. Square up from S. the amount desired for lapover. 

T from S is Yf< short shoulder. Square forward THIC COLLAK. 

from T. 1 6 is e'-tablished at the hollow pari of neckgorge on the 

U from T is 1 /24 short shoulder. forepart. 

V from S is 1 /3 short shoulder. 1 7 is 1 Y4 inches from 1 6. 

W from V is the same distance as between D and E. Circle from 2 using point 1 6 as a pivot, which es- 

Draw a line from O through W and shape from a tablishes point 

point 1'4 inch from W to a point '4 inch from U. I 8 on the crease line. 

X from F is the short shoulder. (12 inches for this 1 9 from 18 is the same distance as between 18 and 2. 

diagram). Draw a line from 1 9 to 17. Shape at 17. 

Y from X is 1 '74 inches for making. Square up and 20 from 1 9 is the same distance as between 1 6 and 1 7. 
down from Y. Draw a line from 20 to 1 6. 

Z from Y is 1/12 short shoulder. 21 from 20 is Yl >ich. Square forward from 21. 

Square up from Y guiding by points X and E. Make the leaf the desired width and shape. 



Streiff s System 




Diagram C 



Streiff's System 



DIAGRAM D. 
THE SLEEVE TO DIAGRAM C. 



The Measures: 

Sleeve under arm . 
Short shoulder . . 



.18 
,24 



TO DRAFT. 

convenience use Yi of short shoulder for 
pecified short shoulder. ( 1 2 inches for 



Fo 
points 
diagram.) 
A is the point from Vi'hich square. 
B from A is I /3 short shoulder. Square b 
C from B is 1/12 short shoulder. 
D from C is 1/3 short shoulder. 
E from A is J/4 inch for makmg. 
F from E is 2/3 short shoulder. D 

F to D. 
G from F is 1/3 short should 



ckfr 



raw a Ime from 



Circle from F using 
point G as a pivot. Shape to a pomt ',4 inch from C. 



H from F is 1/12 short shoulder. Draw a line from 

H to D and shape to a point '74 inch from C. 
I from B is J/a sleeve under arm. 
J from B is Yl sleeve under arm. (9 inches for this 

diagram.) Square back from J. 
K from J IS I 2 inch. Draw a line from B to K. 

Draw lines down from J and K, guidmg by point I. 

Shape at J and K. 
L from K IS Yi sleeve under arm. (9 mches for this 

diagram.) Square forward and back from L guid- 
ing by line K-L. 
M from L is !/2 short shoulder, or any width desired 

for cuff. 
N from J is 2/3 short shoulder. Draw a line from N 

through M and square by same to L. 

Draw lines from a point j/4 inch from F and H, to 

N. Shape at N. 



Streiff's System 




Diagram D 



10 



Streiff's System 



DIAGRAM E. 
SINGLE BREASTED VEST WITHOUT COLLAR. 



1 he Measures: 

Long shoulder 26J/2 

Siiort shoulder 23 

Natural waist 17 

Breast 38 

Waist 33 

OiJeniiig 14 

Length in front 26^ 

TO DRAFT. 

A is the point from which square. 

B from A is the natural waist. 

C from A is the amount the long shoulder is move than 

the short shoulder. (3'/2 inches for this diagram.) 

For convenience use J/? of short shoulder for all 

points specified short shoulder. 
D from C IS 1 /6 of short shoulder plus the amount as 

between A and C. ( 1 /6 of 1 5 inches.) 
E from D is 54 short shoulder. Square forward from 

E and B. 
F from E IS '/'2 breast. 
G from F IS 2 inches. 
H IS halfway betwen G and E. 
1 from B is 1/24 breast. 
J is halfway between I and B. Draw a line from D 

to J and square down from J. 
K from I is '/j inch for each inch that the waist is less 

than the breast. ( 1 '/4 inches for this diagram.) 
L from K is J/? waist. 
M from L is 2 inches. Draw a line from G to M. 

Square down from M. 
N is halfway between M and K. Draw a line from 

H to N and square down from N. Shape to N. 
O from N IS the same distance as between K and I. 

Draw a line from H through O. 
P from A IS j/4 short shoulder. Square up from P. 
Q from P is 1/24 short shoulder. Shape from A to Q 
R from E is 1/16 short shoulder. 
S from R is Y2 short shoulder. Square up from S. 
T from S is 1 /3 short shoulder. 
U from T is the same distance as between C and D. 

Square forward from U. 
V from U is 1/16 short shoulder. Draw a line from 

Q to V. Shape the armseye of back from a point 

'/4 inch from U, to a point '/2 inch below H. 
W from E is the short shoulder. ( I 1 '/2 inches for this 

diagram.) 



X from W is ^4 inch for making. 

X guiding by points W and D. 
Y from X is 1/16 short shoulder. 
Z from X is the short shoulder. 1 

diagram.) 

1 from Z is f^ inch for making. 

2 from E is the same distance as 



Square up from 

Square up from Y. 

1 1, 2 inches for this 



between A and E, 
W and X comb:ned. Square back from 1 guiding 
by points Z and 2. 

3 from 1 is J/^ short shoulder. 

4 from Z is 1/3 short shoulder. Square forward from 
4. 

5 from 4 is I 8 breast. Draw a line from 5 to G. 

6 from 1 is the opening plus 1 inch for making, ap- 
plied from 1 to 3 to 6. 

7 from 1 is ihe length plus 1 inch for making, applied 
from 1 to 3 to 7. Draw a line from K to 7 which 
establishes point 

8 on the line squared down from N. 

Square forward from 8 guiding by line H-N which 
establishes point 

9 on the line drawn from H through O. 

1 from B is the same distance as between O and 9. 
Draw a line from 1 to 9 and square by same to- 
ward point S, which establishes point 

1 1 at the wai't line. Draw a cutout equal in distance 
less '/2 inch as between J and I, divid'ng the amount 
on e.ther side of II. Cut out the back and place 
point A at I , with the line A-C on the line squared 
back from 1 by po nt 2. Mark around same and 
«hape the armseye as represented. 
Draw a Ime from the shoulder point at 3, to 6 
Shape through Z to a point 1 inch from 3, down 
to 6. 
Draw a line to 3, to parallel the line shaped through 

z. 

I 2 from 3 is '/2 inch less than the distance as between 
1 and 3. 

Square forward from 1 2 by line 1 2-3. 
Circle from 7, usina point 3 as a pivot. 
Establish the buttonholes and pockets. 
Shape the front and bottom as represented. 
For a do'iMe breasted ve^^t add to the front of line 
G-M, '/2 the amount desired for lapover. 
The line 5-G is front whenever the opening is above 
the breast line. 
For clerical ve=t shape the neckgorge to 5. 



Streiff*s System 



11 




Diagram E 



12 



Streiff*s System 



DIAGRAM F. 

THE TROUSERS. ! T on the line squared forward from M. 

1 he Measures: i Draw lines from T to I and N. 

Outside leneth 40 ^ from K is the same distance as between the lines T-I 

Inside length .'.'.'.'. [^ y... '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.3] ^"^ '^"N a' L. Shape to K and U. 

Waist 33 V from H is 1/4 knee. 

Seat 41 W from H is '/i knee. 

Knee 18 X from F is '/i bottom. 

\ from F IS '/4 bottom. Shape the outside seam from 

Note. — To obtain sufficient ease add to seat meas- Q d^ru R, to O. W and Y and the inside seam from 

ure from 1 to 3 inches according to the amount of ea:e ]s^ thru V to X as represented. 

desired. For this diagram 2 inches have been added to Shape from U to a point halfway between U and V. 

the seat measure. Cut out the forepart. 

THE FOREPART. THE BACKPART. 

TO DRAFT. ' £^(g„j fi^^ li^gj 1^^^.,^ f^^^ Q_ Q ^ ^^j Y, also 

A is the point from which square. Q-R to re-establish point C. 

B from A is the outside length. 1 is halfway between E and J. Draw a line thru 1 to I. 

C from B is the inside length. 2 from K is 1 /24 seat. Shape from a point at L to 

D from C is 2 inches less than J > of mside length. a point Vg, inch below 2. 

Square forward from C. D and B. q f,„„ 1 ;, 1/ ,„,f 

y-P If , -,n< -' rrom I is '/-> seat, 

ror convenience use yi of seat measure (ZUy? . , -> ■ 1 ' 1 r 1 ■ 

1 /■ .1 1 •, "f 11 1 c J 1 4 rrom d is I inch tor making, 

inches tor this diagram) tor all points specined seat. ... . 

E from A is 1/3 seat. ^ f''°"i ^ '^ ' '"'^'^ f""" making. Draw a line from 4 

F from B is 1/3 seat. Draw a Ime from E to F which '» ^ and square forward thru 3 guiding by same. 

establishes points 6 from 4 is 1/6 seat. Draw a line from 6 to G. 

G and Circle from 6 using G as a pivot. 

H on the lines squared forward from C and D. 7 from 6 is I4 inch for each inch that the waist is less 

I from C is I/2 seat. Square up from I which estab- than the seat. (2 inches for this diagram.) 

lishes point Draw a line from 7 to connect with the line 6-G and 

J on the line squared forward from A. shape from a point ' 4 inch from 6 and 7 as repre- 

K from I is ' 8 seat. sented. 

L from I is ' 8 seat. Square back from L. Square back to 7 guiding by line l-I and shape to 1. 

M from I is 1/3 seat. Square forward from M. g f^„^ y^ j^ , -^^^ f^^ mAmg. 

N from I is I /24 seat. q , ^- ■ 1 ■ 1 r 1 cu c i »l 

f-^ [ p ■ 1/94 ^ from 1 IS I inch lor making, ohape rrom 4 thru 

Tt r y~ ■ / ■ ■ .' 5 and 8 to 9 and from 2 thru V to X as represented. 

r from h is /8 waist. c , r\ j \ ] a r. c . u l 1 i; 

^ r 1-1/ •. nv 1- r r\ . f Square to U guiding by line 4-J for notch below J. 

Ki from E ]s '/ft, waist. Uraw a line from (j to C =. o . 

which establishes point Note : At times it is difficult to obtain the correct 

R on the line squared back from L. rise of trousers as from A to C. A proportion is safer 

S from P is the same distance as between P and J. to use than the actual measure. If the proportion which 

Draw a line from Q to S and square down thru P I found reliable is preferred to the actual measure, make 

by same, which establishes point from I to .A, 2 3 of seat. 



Streiff's System 



13 




14 



Streiff s System 



T he Measures : 

Sleeve under arm 17 

Long shoulder 3 1 !/2 

Short shoulder 28 

Natural waist 17 

Length 30 

Breast 48 

Waist 49 

Seat 50 

Note: The long shoulder and the short shoulder 

measures have been increased 1 inch and the breast, 

waist and seal measures 2 inches each. (See note to 

diagram C for explanation.) 

TO DRAFT. 
A is the point from which square. 
B from A is the natural waist. 
C from A is the length. 
D from A is the amount the long shoulder is more than 

the short shoulder. (3'/2 inches for this diagram.) 

For convenience use Yi of short shoulder for all 

points specified short shoulder. 
E from D is 1/6 of short shoulder plus the amount as 

between A and D. (1/6 of 17 1/2 inches.) 
F from E is '/i short shoulder. Square forward from 

F, B and C. 
G from F is ^2 breast. 
H from G is 2'/4 inches. 
I from H is ^4 inch. (' j the amount desired for 

lapover. ) 
J from B is 1 /24 breast. 
K from I is '74 inch for each inch that the waist is 

more than the breast. ( '/t inch for this diagram.) 
L is halfway between B and K.. Draw a line from E 

to L and square down from L. 
M from K is Vi waist. 
N from M is 2 ',4 inches. 
O from N is Yj, inch. ( I/7 the amount desired for 

Ippover.) Draw a line from I to O and square 

down from O. 
P from A is Y^ short shoulder. Square up from P. 
Q from P is 1/24 short shoulder. Sha[5e from A to Q. 
R from F is 'a short shoulder. 

S from R is I/2 short shoulder. Square up from S. 
T from S is ' s short shoulder. Square forward from T. 
U from T is 1 /24 short shoulder. 

V from S is 1/3 short shoulder. 

W from V is the same distance as between D and E. 
Draw a I ne from O through W and shape from a 
point '/i inch from W, to a point Ya 'ich from U. 

X from F is the short shoulder. ( 1 4 inches for this 
dae;ram.) 

Y from X is I '4 inches for making. Square up and 

down from \ . 
Z from Y is 1/12 short shoulder. 

Square up from Y guidinc; by points X and E. 
1 from Y is the short shoulder. ( I 4 inches for this 
diagram.) 



DIAGRAM G. 
THREE-BUTTON SACK, CORPULENT FORM. 

2 from I is ^/^ inch for making. 



3 from F is the same distance as between A and F, 
X and Y combined. 

Square back from 2 guiding by points 3 emd 1 . 

4 from 1 is I /3 short shoulder. Square forward from 4. 

5 from 4 is Yt> breast. 

6 from L is J,/> short shoulder. Draw a line from U 
to 6. 

7 from K IS '/> short shoulder. 

8 from B is I /6 seat. Square forward from 8. 

9 from 8 IS the same distance as between B and 7. 
Draw a line from 6 thru 9 and shape to bottom. 

I from 9 IS the same distance as between 6 and 7. 
Draw a line down from 1 0, guiding by point 7, which 
establishes point 

I 1 on the line squared forward from C. 

I 2 from 1 is J/4 inch for each mch that the seat is more 
than the breast. (''7 ""^b for this diagram.) 
Draw a line from a point where the breast line crosse; 
the line U-6, to 7 and from 7 to 1 2 £md from 1 2 
down tc parallel the line 10-1 1. 
Shape to 7 and 6 as represented. 
Square forward thru I 1 guiding by line drawn from 
12. 

I 3 from II IS 13 short shoulder. Square forward 
from I 3. Shape at I 3. 

14 from Y is 2^3 of sleeve under arm less I inch (2/3 
of 16 inches) and is center of pocket. Draw the 
pocket opening thru 14 to run parallel with the bot- 
tom and make 7 inches in length. 
The breast pocket is 1 inch from Y. 

I 5 is in front of pocket. Square down from 1 5 which 
establishes 

1 6 on the line squared forward from 13. 

I 7 from O is the same distance as between the waist line 
and 15. 

Draw a line from I to 1 7 and square by same to 1 5. 
Square down from 1 5 guiding by line last squared. 

I 8 from I 5 is the same distance as between I 5 and 1 6. 
Square forward from 18 by line 15-18. 
Draw a line from the armseye to a point at the pocket 
halfway between 14 and the back end of same. 
Cut out the back and place point A at point 2 
with the line A-D on the line squared back from 2 
by point 3. Mark around same and shape the 
shoulder as represented. 

Shape the neckgorge and armseye as represented. 
Establish the buttonholes and draw a crease line from 
a point I inch from the neckgorge to the upper but- 
tonhole Shape the lapel and front. Cut forepart 
on line to the pocket, also pocket thru 14 to 15 and 
fold so that line 15-16 lies on line 15-18. 

Note : This process of bringing the bottom of coat 
to the leg must not be employed on square front coats, 
as the stride is ruined thereby. All corpulent coats 
should have a V taken out of the canvas at the waist 
line and the cloth worked in over same. 



Streiff's System 



15 




Diagram G 



16 



StreifPs System 



DIAGRAM H. 
SINGLE-BREASTED VEST, CORPULENT FORM. 



1 he Measures : 

Long shoulder 30J/2 

Short shoulder 27 

Natural waist 17 

Breast 46 

Waist , 47 

Opening ' 6'/2 

Length in front 29 

TO DRAFT. 
A is the point from which square. 
B from A is tlie natural waist. 
C from A is the amount the long shoulder is more than 

the short shoulder. {^Vz inches for this diagram.) 

For convenience use Yz of short shoulder for all 

points specihed short shoulder. 
D from C is 1/6 of short shoulder plus the amount as 

between A and C. ( I /6 of 1 7 inches.) 
E from D is '4 short shoulder. Square forward from 

E and B. 
F from E is '2 breast. 
G from F is 2 inches. 
H is halfway between G and E. 
I from B is 1/24 breast. 
J from I IS [/4 inch for each inch that the waist is more 

than the breast. ('4 '"ch for this diagram.) 
K. is haifway between J and B. Draw a line from D 

to K and square down from K. 
L from I is ]/z waist. 
M from L is 2 inches. Draw a line from G to M. 

Square down from M. 
N is halfway between M and J. Draw a line from H 
thru N and square down from N. Shape at N. 

Note: 
O and N come together for forms where the waist is a' 

much or more than the breast. 
P from A is '/4 short shoulder. Square up from P. 
Q from P is I /24 short shoulder. Shape from A to Q. 
R from E is I / 1 6 short shoulder. 
S from R is ^2 short shoulder. Square up from S. 
T from S is I /3 short shoulder. 
U from T is the same distance as between C and D. 

Square forward from U. 
V from U is 1/16 short shoulder. Draw a line from 

Q to V. Shape the armseye of back from a point 

'/4 inch from U to a point '/2 inch below H. 
W from E is the short shoulder. ( I 3'/ '2 inches for this 

diagram.) 
X from W is ^4 inch for making. Square up from X 

guiding by points W and D. 



Y from X is 1/16. Square up from Y. 
Z from X is the short shoulder. (I3I/2 inches for this 
diagram.) 

1 from Z is J4 inch for making. 

2 from E is the same distance as between A and E, W 
and X combined. 

Square back from I guiding by points Z and 2. 

3 from I IS J, 4 short shoulder. 

4 from Z IS 1/3 short shoulder. Square forward from 4. 

5 from 4 is ; 8 breast. Draw a line from 5 to G. 

6 from I is the opening plus I inch, applied from 1 to 
3 to 6. 

7 from I IS the length plus I inch for making, applied 
from I to 3 to 7. Draw a line from J to 7 which 
establishes point. 

8 on the line squared down from N. 

9 from B is the same distance as between N and 8. 
Draw a line from 9 thru 8 and square by same to- 
ward point S which establishes point 

I on the waist line. Draw a cutout equal in distance 

less J/2 inch, as between J and K, dividing the 

amount on either side of I 0. 

Draw the pockets and establish point. 
1 I '/fi waist from the line squared down from M. 

Square down from I I . 

Square back to I I guiding by line G-M and square 

down from I I by same which establishes point 
I 2 on the line drawn from J to 7. 

I 3 is the same distance from I I as between I 1 and I 2. 
1 4 from 8 IS J/2 inch for making. Draw a line from 

14 to 13. 

E tablish the buttonholes. 

Circle from 7 using point 3 as a pivot and shape the 

front and bottom as represented. 

Cut out the back and place pomt A at I with the 

line .A-C on the line squared back from I by point 2. 

Mark around same and shape the armseye to a point 

'/? inch below H. 

Draw a crease line from the shoulder point at 3, to 

6 and shape the neckgorge as represented. 
1 ::> from the shoulder point at 3 is the same distance less 

J/t inch as between points 1 and 3. 

Square each way from 15. Draw a line to connect 

with the neckgorge at 4. 

Shape the collar and lapel. 

Note: When cutting the collar of material that re- 
quires seaming, make the stand J/? inch wider as rep- 
resented by the dot and dash line. Cut the pocket open- 
ing from N to 1 1 and fold so that line 11-12 is on line 
11-13. 



Streiff^s System 



17 




Diagram H 



18 



Streiff s System 



DIAGRAM I. 
DOUBLE-BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT. 



1 he Measures : 

Sleeve under arm 18 

Long shoulder 29J/2 

Short shoulder 26 

Natural waist 17 

Length 43 

Breast 44 

Waist 39 

Seat 45 

Note: The long shoulder and short shoulder meas- 
ures have been increased 3 inches and the breast, waist 

and seat measures 6 inches each as taken over the vest. 

(See note to diagram C for explanation.) 
TO DRAFT. 

A is the point from which square. 

B from A is the natural waist. 

C from A is the length. 

D from A is the amount the long shoulder is more than 
the short shoulder. (3i/2 inches for this diagram.) 
For convenience use J/2 of short shoulder for all 
points specified short shoulder. 

E from D is I /6 of short shoulder plus the amount as 
between A and D. (1/6 of Iby? mches.) 

F from E is '/4 short shoulder. Square forward from 
F, B and C. 

G from F is '/z breast. 

H from G is I % inches. 

I from H is 3 inches. ( Yz the amount desired for lap- 
over. ) 
I from B is 1/24 breast. 

K IS halfway betmeen J and B. Draw a line from E 
to Is. and square down from K. Shape at K. 

L from J is !/4 inch for each inch that the waist is less 
than the breast. (1 '/4 inches for this diagram.) 

M from L is '/2 waist. 

N from M is 1 ;^4 inches. 

O from N is 3 inches. ( ' 7 the amount desired for lap- 
over.) Draw a line from I to O and square down 
from O. 

P from A is !4 short shoulder. Square up from P. 

Q from P is i /24 short shoulder. Shape from A to Q. 

R from F is ' H short shoulder. 

S from R is '/2 short shoulder. Square up from S. 

T from S is 1/12 short shoulder. Square forward 
from T. 

U from T is 1/16 short shoulder. 

V from S is 1/3 short shoulder. 

W from V is the same distance as between D and E. 
Draw a line from Q thru W and shape from a 
point l<4 inch from W, to a po^nt '/j inch from U. 

X from F is the short shoulder. ( I 3 inches for this 
diagram.) 

Y from X is % inch for making. Square up and down 
from Y. 



Z from Y is 1/12 short shoulder. 

Square up from Y guiding by points X and E. 

1 from Y is the short shoulder. ( I 3 inches for this 
diagram.) 

2 from I is % inch for making. 

3 from F is the same distance as between A jind F, 
X and Y combined. 

Square back from 2 guiding by points 3 and 1 . 

4 from I is 1/3 short shoulder. Square forward from 4. 

5 from 4 is J/g breast. 

Square up to U which establishes point 

6 on the waist line. 

7 from B is I /6 seat. Square forward from 7. 

8 from 7 is the same distance as from K to 6. 
Draw a line down from 8 guiding by point 6 which 
establishes point 

9 on the line squared forward from C. 

1 from 8 is the same distance as betwen B and J. 
Draw a line from 6 thru 1 to bottom. 

I 1 from 8 is J/4 inch for each inch that the seat is more 
than the breast. (J/4 inch for this diagram.) Draw 
a line from 6 thru I 1 and square by same to 9. 
Shape at 6. 
Square forward from 9 guiding by line 8-9. 

1 2 from 9 is 1/3 short shoulder. Square forward from 
1 2. Shape at I 2. 

13 from Y is 2/3 of sleeve under arm less 1 inch (2/3 
of 1 7 inches) and is center of pocket. Draw the 
pocket opening thru I 3 to run parallel with the bot- 
tom of forepart and make 7 inches in length. 
Cut out the back and place point A at point 2 with 
the line A-D on the line squared back from 2 by 
point 3. Mark around same and shape the shoulder 
as represented. 

Shape the neckgorge and armseye as represented. 
Establish the buttonholes. 

Mis established at the hollow part of neckgorge on the 
forepart. 

I 5 from 1 4 is 1 Y4 inch. Draw a line thru I 5 to the 
upper buttonhole. 
Shape the lapel and front. 

THE STORM COLLAR. 

Circle Irom 2, using point 1 4 as a pivot, which es- 
tablishes point 

1 6 on the crease line. 

I 7 from I 6 is the same distance as between 1 6 and 2. 

18 is halfway between 1 and 4. Draw a line from 17 
thru I 8 and shape as represented. 

19 from 17 is the same distance as between 14 and 15. 
Draw a line from 19 to parallel the line 17-18 and 
shape to 1 4 as represented. 

20 from 19 is y> inch. Square up from 20. Make 
leaf of collar 4 inches wide and shape to taste. 



Streiff's System 



19 




Diagram I 



20 



StreifPs System 



DIAGRAM J. 
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK. 



The Measures: 
Long sh 



Ide 



.27'/ 



Short shoulder 24 

Natural waist 17 

Fashionable waist 18 

Length 40 

Breast 40 

Waist 35 

Seat 41 

Note : 1 he long shoulder and short shoulder 

measures have been increased 1 inch and the breast, 

waift and seat measures 2 inches each as taken over the 

vest. (See note to diagram C for explanation.) 
TO DRAFT. 

A is the point from which square. 

B from A is the natural waist. 

C from A is Yi inch for making. 

D from C is the amount the long shoulder is more than 
the short shoulder. (3'/2 inches for this diagram.) 
For convenience use Yi of short shoulder for all 
points specified short shoulder. 

E from D is 1/6 of short shoulder, plus the amount as 
between C and D. (1/6 of 15 '/2 inches.) 

F from E is '/4 short shoulder. Square forward from 
F and B. 

G from A is the fashionable waist. 

H from A is the length. Square forward from G and H. 
I from F is Yy breast. 
J from I is 2'/4 inches. 

K from B is I /24 breast. 

L is halfway between K and B. Draw a line from E 
to L and square down from L. 

M from K is '/4 inch for each inch that the waist is less 
than the breast. ( I '/4 inches for this diagram.) 

N from M is Yl waist. 

O from N is 2Y4 inches. Draw a line thru J and O 
and square down from O. 

F from A is Y'i short shoulder. Square up from P. 

O from P is 1 /24 short shoulder. Shape from A to Q. 

R from F is ' s short shoulder. 

S from R is Yz short shoulder. Square up from S. 

T from S is 1/12 shorl shoulder. Square forward from 

T. 
U from S is 1/3 short .shoulder. Square forward from U. 
V from U is '2 inch for making. 
W from V is the same distance as between D and E. 

Draw a line from Q thru W and shape from a point 

Y inch from W to U. 
X from F is the short shoulder. ( 1 2 inches for this 

diagram.) 
^ from X is 1 '4 inches for making. Square up from Y . 
Z from Y is 1/12 short shoulder. 

.Square up from \' guiding by points X and E. 

1 from \ is the short shoulder. ( 1 2 inches for this 
diagram.) 

2 from I is V4 inch for' making. 

3 from F is the same distance as between C and F, X 
and Y combined. 



Square back from 2, guiding by points 3 and 1. 

4 from I is 1/3 short shoulder. Square forward from 4. 

5 from 4 is Vg breast. Draw a line from 5 to J. 

6 from K is J/g short shoulder. Square down from 6. 

7 from F is I /3 short shoulder. Shape from U thru 
7 to 6. 

8 from U is Yl inch for making. 

9 from 6 is the same distance as between K and L. 

1 from 6 is 1/6 seat plus Yl inch for making. Square 

back from 1 0. 
1 1 from 10 is the same distance as between L and B. 

Draw a line down from 1 1 . guiding by point 6. 
1 2 from 1 I IS !/4 inch for each inch that the seat is more 

than the breast. (J/4 inch for this diagram.) 

Draw a line down from 12 to parallel the line drawn 

down from 1 1 . 

Draw a line from 9 to 1 2 and shape at 12. Shape 

from 8 thru 7 to 9. 
1 3 from 9 IS the same distance as between B and G, plus 

^4 inch for making. 
1 4 from 1 3 is the same distance as between G and H, 

plus '/4 inch for making. Square forward thru 1 4. 

1 5 from 14 is 1/3 short shoulder. Square forward 
from I 5. Shape at 15. 

1 6 from T is '/« short shoulder. Shape from 8 to a 
point Y-i inch from 1 6. 

1 7 from 9 is 1/3 short shoulder. Shape from 1 6 thru 17. 

1 8 from 1 7 is 5/2 of the distance as between K and M. 
Shape from 1 6 thru 1 8 as represented. 
Square back from I 3 guiding by line E-L which 
establishes point 

1 9 on the line shaped thru 1 7. 

20 is the same distance from 1 8 as from 1 7 to 19. 

2 1 from O is 1/12 breast. Draw a line from 20 to 2 L 
Shape at 2 1 as represented. 

Square forward from a point to which forepart was 
shaped guiding by line J-O. Make rever the de- 
sired width and shape. 

22 from 21 is 'z? inch less than the bottom width of 
rever. Square down from 22. 

23 from J is the same distance as between 5 and J and 
is located Yl inch from the line J-O. 

Shape at J and from 23 to J as represented. 

Square toward the center of breast guiding by line 

20-2 1 and draw a cutout to equal the amount when 

made, as between I 7 and 1 8. 

Cut out the back and place point A at point 2 with 

the line A-D on the line squared back from 2 by 

point 3. Mark around same and shape the shoulder 

as represented. 

Shape the neckgorge and armseye as represented. 

Establish the buttonholes. 

Draw a crease line from a point I ' 4 inches from 

the neckgorge to the upper buttonhole as re[>re- 

sented. 

Shape the lapel to taste. 

The dot and dash lines are % inch from J and O 

and represent the cutaway frock. 



Streiff^s System 



21 




Diagram J 



22 



Streiff*s System 



DIAGRAM K. 
DRESS COAT. 

The Measures : 

Long shoulder 27'/2 

Short shoulder 24 

Natural waist 17 

Fashionable waist 18 

Length 39 

Breast 40 

Waist 35 

Seat 41 

Vest length in front 26'/2 

Note: The long shoulder and short shoulder 

measures have been increased 1 inch and the breast, 

waist and seat measures 2 inches each as taken over the 

vest. (See note to diagram C. for explanation.) 



TO DRAFT. 
A is the point from which square. 
B from A is the natural waist. 
C from A is [/; inch for makmg. 
D from C is the amount the long shoulder is more than 

the short shoulder. (3'/2 mches for this diagram.) 

For convenience use Yl of short shoulder for all 

points specified short shoulder. 
E from D is I /'6 of short shoulder plus the amount as 

between C and D ( 1 /6 of 15'/2 inches). 
F from E IS '/4 short shoulder. Square forward from 

F and B. 
G from A is the fashionable waist. 
H from A is the length. Square forward from G 

and H. 
I from F IS Yi breast. 
J from I IS 2'/4 inches. 
K from B is 1/24 breast. 
L is halfway between K and B. Draw a line from E 

to L and square down from L. 
M from K is Yi, inch for each inch that the waist is less 

than the breast. ( 1 '/4 inches for this diagram.) 
N from M is Yl waist. 
O from N is 2Ya inches. Draw a line thru J to O 

and square down from O. 
P from A is '/4 short shoulder. Square up from P. 
Q from P is I /24 short shoulder. Shape from A to Q. 
R from F is ',8 short shoulder. 

S from R is Yl short shoulder. Square up from S. 
T from S is 1/12 short shoulder. Square forward 

from T. 
U from S is 1/3 short shoulder. Square forward 

from U. 

V from U IS Yl inch for making. 

W from V is the same distance as between D and E. 

Draw a line from thru W and shape from a 

point Ya inch from W to U. 
X from F is the short shoulder. ( 1 2 inches for this 

diagram.) 

Y from X IS I '/4 inches for makin-'. Square up 
from Y. 

Z from Y is I /I 2 short shou'der. 

Square up from Y guiding by point; X and E. 

1 from Y IS the short shoulder. ( I 2 inches for this 
diagram. 

2 from I is ^4 inch for making. 

3 from F is the same distance as between C and F, 
X and Y combined. 



Square back from 2 guiding by points 3 and 1 . 

4 from 1 IS 1/3 short shoulder. Square forward 
from 4. 

5 from 4 is 1 8 breast. 

6 from K is (,8 short shoulder. Square down from 6. 

7 from F is 1/3 short shoulder. Shape from U thru 
7 to 6. 

8 from L is J/2 inch for making. 

9 from 6 is the same distance as between K and L. 
1 from 6 is 1/6 seat plus Yz 'nch for making. Square 

back from 1 0. 
I 1 from I is the same distance as between L and B. 

Draw a line down from 1 I guiding by point 6. 
1 2 from 11 is Y4 inch for each inch that the seat is 

more than the breast. ('/j inch for this diagram.) 

Draw a line down from 1 2 to parallel the line 

drawn down from 1 I . 

Draw a line from 9 to 1 2 and shape at 1 2. 

Shape from 8 thru 7 to 9. 
1 3 from 9 is the same distance as between B and G 

pius ^'4 inch for making. 
I 4 from 1 3 IS the same distance as between G and H 

plus '/4 inch for making. Square forward from I 4. 
1 5 from 1 4 is I ,'3 waist. 
1 6 from I is ' 8 short shoulder. Shape from 8 to a 

point '/4 inch from 1 6. 
1 7 from 9 is 1/3 short shoulder. Shape from 16 

thru 1 7. 



!/2 of the distance as between K and M. 



Shape from 1 6 thru 1 8 as represented. Square 
back from 1 3 guiding by line E-L which estab- 
lishes point. 
1 9 On the line shaped thru 17. 

20 is the same distance from 18 as from 1 7 to 19. 

2 1 from 2 is '74 short shoulder. 

22 from 2 is the vest length in front plus I inch for 
making, applied from 2 to 21 down to 22. 

Draw a line from M to 22. 

Draw a line to parallel line M-22 and I '/4 inches 

from same. 

Square forward from 20 and shape as represented. 

Establish the length of lapel and shape the front. 

Establish the buttonholes. 

23 from O IS 16 waist. Square up thru 23 guiding by 
line M-22 which establishes point. 

24 On the line drawn from M to 22. Draw a line 
from 24 to 15. 

Draw a cutout to equal the amount when made, as 
between I 7 and I 8 and shape the front of the skirt 
as represented. 

Cut out the back and place point A al point 2 with 
the line A-D on the line squared back from 2 by 
point 3. Mark around same and shape the ;houlder. 
Shane the neckgorge and armseye as represented. 

25 On the line J-0 is the same distance from J as 5. 
Square down from a point Yz inch from 5. Draw 
a cutout equal in distance less I inch as between 
5 and 25. 

Draw a crease line from a point I !/4 inches from 
the neckgorge to the upper buttonhole as repre- 
sented. 
Shape the lapel. 



Streiff's System 



23 




Diagram K 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 082 914 6 # 



